Mini Index No. 01: The Basic White Tee
How the wardrobe staple came to be + how we can source it responsibly
We’re starting this series off with none other than the backbone of everyone’s closet: the basic white tee. The garment we lean on relentlessly, and replace the most. The piece we dress up, dress down, wear to bed. She can be classy, she can be lazy, she can be clean, she can be messy, and she goes with just about everything else we own. I’m calling her she, but the tee also transcends genders, age groups, and trends. She’s a sneaky powerful piece, a character (almost) all of us share, and something many of us would feel lost without.
How did the white tee come to be
Early productions of the T-shirt first became possible when the commercial knitting machine was invented in 1864. In 1901, the T-shirt was introduced as a two-piece underwear set by Hanes, and was worn primarily by soldiers during WWI. In 1913, it was adopted by the U.S. Navy as a light garment alternative to heavy wool clothing. Chanel was an early adopter of the jersey-like material in the 20s, while men’s sports simultaneously adopted the t-shirt (a result of paid holidays and weekends becoming popularized). It wasn’t until the 40s that the T-shirt was considered unisex and Sears started advertising them for women in their catalogue.
In the 50’s, Marlo Brando revolutionized the white tee after wearing it in Streetcar Named Desire followed by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause. Hollywood fashion adopters began wearing T-shirts in public as a symbol of rebellion. None other than the hippies adopted its statement as counterculture movements rose in the 60s.
In the 70s, the tee was adopted as a medium. It became a canvas of self-expression. Everyone was wearing their beliefs, political values, and favorite bands. It wasn’t until the 80s that T-shirt became a staple of casual elegance. It was often seen worn under a summery blazer, as seen on Don Johnson in the iconic series Miami Vice. Not only did he introduce the t-shirt to the world of luxury fashion, he also gave men permission to wear pastels. And other stars continued to follow suit.
I realize all of these examples are male actors. They can be thanked for sparking a never-ending romance with the white tee. But the girlies have really given it life. For the past few decades, women’s fashion has found ways to incorporate the white tee in any trend cycle. As I write this, I’m sitting across the table from a girl in a white tee, tastefully paired with stackable gold jewelry and a slick updo.
In New York, I’ve been seeing less of the tight white tee. Either a boyfriend fit or a loose slim tee are taking center stage. Now, it’s winter here, so the street data is hidden behind puffers and fur, but I can only imagine many of the same looks from fall are layered underneath it all. Here are some looks I’ve been loving:
Some of these looks can be layered if you live in a cooler climate, or inspire upcoming looks for spring/vacations. We’re still seeing the T-shirt being paired with a lot of low-waist baggy jeans/trousers, scarfs/ties/chunky necklaces, sweaters of all kinds, and I think these looks will still be relevant in SS25.
Where to find a responsible white tee
Asket
Women’s + men’s.
Price: $35
Certifications: Global Organic Textile Standard, Global Recycled Standard
Made of 180gsm long staple Organic Cotton + Asket takes back your irreparable or unwanted garments. Their site includes transparency around the cost of production, traceability, and carbon impact.
Mate The Label
Women’s + men’s
Price: $48
Certifications: Global Organic Textile Standard, BCorp
Relaxed fit made of 100% Organic Cotton. Mate The Label also has a handful of other T-shirt styles like this perfectly oversized boyfriend tee. Compared to the average product, Mate’s T-shirt uses 88.6% less water, 29.4% less carbon, and no plastic or pesticides. They also have a Take Bag Program where you can send old clothes and put the credit towards anything on their site.
LA Relaxed
Women’s
Price: $50
Certifications: Bluesign, Global Organic Textile Standard
Featuring a flirtier cap sleeve, LA Relaxed’s tee is a vintage slub medium weight fabric made of 100% Organic Cotton. The perfect option for a girlier yet relaxed fit.
Reformation
Women’s
Price: $58
Certifications: Global Organic Textile Standard, Global Recycled Standard, Bluesign
A slouchy slim fit made from 60% Organically Grown Cotton and 40% REFIBRA™ Lyocell, a fabric made from wood pulp obtained from responsibly managed forests and recycled cotton scraps. They also have some other T-shirt styles from fitted to relaxed.
AnotherTomorrow
Women’s
Price: $120
Certifications: Global Recycled Standard, BCorp
For a more luxury option, AnotherTomorrow has a whole line of responsibly made t-shirts. Their tees are made of 100% Organic long-staple cotton blend, sourced from three farms in New Mexico and Texas.
EB Denim
Women’s
Price: $165
Certifications: Global Organic Textile Standard
This EB Denim option mixes the looser fit tee with a fitted waist for a modern twist on the classic tee. Their tees are made of GOTS certified organic cotton, recycled cotton, and BCI cotton. They also focus on supporting farmers with a sustainable income and the education needed to sustainably manage their farms.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but some of the best silhouettes I’ve found so far. Let me know if you have any to add <3
xx
I wore my favorite white tee with a pair of jeans and Mary Jane’s yesterday!! What divine timing. I’m a sucker for a good Buck Mason tee
Praise for the white tee! They always look good and are so versatile. Maybe make a note to carry a tidestick in your bag at all times though lol